Your Happy Dog Coach
Welcome Home, New Pup

Welcome Home, New Pup

You’ve decided to grow your family by adding a new little pup, an adult dog, or an older, senior dog!

It’s an exciting time!

But it can also be super overwhelming….

What toys do you buy?
What kind of food?
What kind of leash? Collar? Harness?
How do you potty train?
Should you crate train? And how?
How do you teach your dog that YOU are their new human?

It’s difficult to weed through the information out there and know the best way to set your new pup up for success! I totally get it!

Don’t worry, I got you!

There is going to be a lot of information here, with links, infographics, PDF’s embedded and more! 

Try not to get overwhelmed, grab a tea and take your time to browse through this entire resource.
You and you pup will be glad you did! 

But first, I’m going to start off by saying something that might surprise you: the most important thing to teach your new puppy isn’t sit, stay, or heel. It isn’t even recall.

The most important thing your puppy or new dog needs is a relationship with you! Building trust, connection, and a sense of safety in their brand new world is the absolute most important thing to do with your new dog. Everything else flows from that.

Dogs and puppies don’t come into our lives ready to be “trained.” They need to settle in, learn the rhythms of your life, and build a strong emotional bond with you, their special human. That means keeping them close, supporting them, and helping them make sense of their environment.

Before focusing on teaching cues like “sit” or “stay,” it’s essential to prioritize building a strong, trusting relationship with your new dog. Your puppy or newly adopted dog is navigating a completely unfamiliar world, and your presence should be their source of comfort and security.

While structured training has its place, the early days should be about connection. Although it’s tempting to want to send your puppy to board-and-train programs, most ethical dog professionals recommend against doing so. Why? When in board and train, they are not usually living life with the trainer. Many board and train programs keep dogs crated most of the day, with limited play or social time, and very little opportunity for meaningful connection. While a few ethical and specialized programs exist, most are not appropriate for young puppies or newly adopted dogs trying to build trust. Instead, they will likely spend most of their time crated, only coming out for short play times, potty breaks, and structured training sessions learning commands from someone they don’t know and will not be sharing their life with. Yes, your puppy will be able to follow commands, but at the risk of establishing a true bond and connection with the people they’ll be sharing their life with. 

Instead, keep your puppy close to you, involve them in your daily routines, and establish predictable patterns they can rely on. My mentor, Scarlett once told me: “I’ve had people ask me why the dogs of homeless people are so well behaved. It’s because they are with the owner all day every day. They see the patterns repeated frequently and learn from those patterns. It’s consistency and repetition.” 

Remember, a strong bond is the cornerstone of all successful training, not whether or not they can follow hand signals or commands. Teach your puppy how your home works. Show them when and where to rest, eat, explore, and play. Let them learn that you are safe and predictable. They can’t learn those things by going away for a board and train. 

By living your life together and allowing your dog to learn through shared experiences, you lay the groundwork for a confident, well-adjusted companion. 

Okay, now let’s get into it!

Care Providers

First: Contact Local Veterinarians

Finding a vet can be really difficult. There simply isn’t enough of them for the amount of pets and pet guardians out there. So call around and see if you can find a vet who will take you on. (You can find contact information for the local vets at Local Resources – Your Happy Dog Coach.) When you do find one, ask them a few things:

  • Ask them what their emergency services support looks like. How do they handle after-hours emergencies, what is the extra fees, do they share emergency services with other clinics/hospitals, etc.
  • Ask them about vaccine schedules and if they titer or tailor the vaccine schedule based on lifestyle and age. 
  • Ask about spay/neuter costs and recommendations for the breed you’re getting.
  • Talk to them about dental needs: how to ensure your dogs teeth stay healthy and clean, what sorts of things to look for in a safe chew or treat, if there’s anything they don’t recommend giving your dog, the costs and possible necessity of having dental procedures.
  • Ask them about nutrition recommendations, and why they recommend such.

Other questions for your potential Veterinarian could be: 

  • What is your general approach to wellness and preventive care?
  • Do you support a Fear Free or low-stress handling approach?
  • How do you handle dogs that are anxious, reactive, or fearful in the clinic?
  • Do you allow or encourage cooperative care (e.g., consent-based handling, muzzle training, treats during exams)?
  • Are you comfortable working with a professional dog trainer or behavior consultant if needed?
  • Do you have experience with behavior medication or referrals to veterinary behaviorists?
  • How do you approach behavioral concerns — like fear, anxiety, or reactivity?
  • How do you involve pet guardians in decision-making?
  • Can I speak to the same vet consistently, or will I see whoever is available
  • Do you explain procedures, options, and costs before going ahead with treatment?
  • Are you open to discussing alternative or integrative options (e.g., rehab, acupuncture, nutrition)?
  • Can I bring my dog in for “happy” or “fun” visits to get used to the clinic?
  • Are accommodations available for nervous dogs — like waiting in the car until the exam room is ready?
  • Do you offer house calls or special arrangements for dogs who are extremely fearful or aggressive at the vet?
  • What diagnostic tools do you have in-house (e.g., blood work, X-rays, ultrasound)?
  • Do you provide estimates in advance of procedures or treatments
  • Are payment plans or pet insurance supported at your clinic?
  • Do you offer wellness plans or packages for puppies, seniors, or chronic conditions?
  • What do you do to make visits less stressful for dogs and guardians alike?
  • Can I bring treats, use a muzzle, or stay with my dog during certain procedures?
  • Are you open to discussing my dog’s emotional needs alongside their medical ones?

Also Contact Local Groomers

All dogs will likely need to have regular nail trims, and many breeds of dogs have high needs when it comes to their coats and grooming. Anything mixed with a Poodle (aka any “doodle”), long haired dogs such as an Afghan Hound or Shit Tzu, dogs with an undercoat such as huskies or spaniels, etc, will all require regularly scheduled grooming.
Some questions to ask a groomer include:

  • How long have you been grooming, and what training or certifications do you have?
  • Do you work alone in your grooming space? Do you work with an assistant, or are there other groomers present?
  • What’s your approach to handling fearful or anxious dogs?
  • Do you use any restraint equipment? If so, when and how is it used?
  • What steps do you take to ensure the grooming experience is as low-stress as possible?
  • How do you handle dogs who are nervous or reactive?
  • Do you offer breaks if a dog is overwhelmed?
  • Can I stay with my dog if needed, or watch part of the groom?
  • What signs of stress do you look for, and how do you respond to them?
  • Do you use force-drying (high-velocity dryers)? If so, can it be adjusted or skipped if my dog is noise-sensitive?
  • Will you let me know if my dog struggles during grooming?
  • Can I tour your grooming area?
  • Will you let me know if my dog has any mats, injuries, or skin issues before/after the groom?
  • Do you keep notes or files on dogs, so you remember their needs/preferences
  • How long does a typical appointment take?
  • Are dogs crated before or after grooming? If yes, for how long?
  • Do you groom straight through (one-on-one), or do you rotate between dogs?
  • Do you offer puppy introduction sessions or desensitization grooms for first-timers?
  • What kinds of shampoos and products do you use? Can I bring my own?
  • Are you comfortable following veterinary instructions (e.g., for allergies or skin issues)?
  • Can I request specific handling techniques (e.g., towel dry only, no nail grinding, skip paw trimming)?
  • Have you taken any Fear Free, cooperative care, or animal behavior education?
  • Are you familiar with handling dogs with behavioral concerns, such as touch sensitivity, reactivity, or resource guarding?
  • Are you open to working alongside a trainer or behavior professional if needed?

Let’s puppy proof! 

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” 

Which means it’s a lot easier to manage a space so your puppy avoids getting into “trouble” than it is to constantly be managing your puppy and them possibly being at risk of getting sick or injured.

Imagine that you’re bringing a one year old toddler into your home who has never been there before. Take a look around and see what sort of things they may find interesting or things that could be dangerous for them. Whatever those things are, it’s a safe bet that your new puppy is going to want to get into those things, too! 

Management is the number one tool for setting your dog up for success.

Some examples of puppy proofing and management: 

  • Remove electrical cords, toxic plants, shoes, and anything small enough to chew or swallow. Puppies gather information the same way human babies and toddlers do: by mouthing things! Set them up for safety and success by removing as much from their space as you can. Don’t worry, it’s not forever, it’s just until they are old enough, and have had enough practice, to understand that those things are not for them to chew.
  • Use baby gates or playpens to create safe zones. Not only is this helpful for puppy proofing, but it’s also really helpful for potty training, teaching your puppy to “settle” while you’re still moving around the house, and enforcing quiet time/nap times. Did you know that puppies need 16-18 hours of sleep per day? They don’t have the ability to self soothe or put themselves down for nap times. A lot of times, they just continue to get overstimulated and you’ll see more behaviour such as biting, chewing, barking, and even potty-ing in the house. Enforce those nap times, they’re important.
  • Secure cabinets, garbage bins, and anything breakable.  Again, think toddlerhood for humans. If you don’t want your dog to get into it, you need to manage the environment first, then you can teach them to stay out of things in a controlled environment with training.

Supplies to Have Ready

  • Crate or pen. I am a big fan of crate training. Not only is it helpful for things like potty training, ensuring your puppy gets the rest they need to grow and be healthy, reducing destructive behaviours,  but, when done properly, it gives your dog a safe space to go to when they’re having big feelings, which can reduce dog bites, reactivity, and injuries to themselves or someone else. It also helps to keep the dog calm if they were ever to need to stay at the vet as they’ll be crated there and already being accustomed to sleeping in a crate would be one less thing that would be stressful for them.
  • Washable bedding and blankets. Your puppy will have accidents, it’s a given. Having something that’s washable will make life a little less expensive than having to replace those items often. Just keep an eye on your puppy and if they seem to be enjoying ripping things apart, they may not be ready for something shreddable just yet…. it took my Casey more than two years to be able to be trusted with a blanket in her crate… she used to each ALL the things that were not food!
  • Stainless steel or ceramic food/water bowls. The reason these are recommended over plastic is simply due to chemicals that can leech into the water supply. It’s also important to wash your dogs water bowl regularly, every couple of days at minimum.
  • Puppy food. You may have asked the vet what diet or food brands they recommend for your specific dog or breed, but I also recommend asking the breeder or rescue what the puppy has already been eating. If you do plan to change their food, do so gradually over time by adding just a little bit of the new food to their old food at each meal
  • Collar, harness, and leash. A flat collar is always a good idea to hold any identifying tags. A 6 foot leash is also the basic length for walking, but having a long line that is 15-20 feet will be wonderful for training (especially training recall! It’s never too early to start playing recall games!)
  • Chew toys and enrichment items. These are going to be really important when it comes to behaviour. Remember when I said that puppies learn through putting everything in their mouths? Well that includes shoes, pillows, sofas, blankets… AND their humans’ hands, arms, legs, ankles, hair, nose… you name it! The number one best way to teach your puppy that YOU are not their chew toy is to always ensure you have one of THEIR chew toys to redirect the chewing to. There are more specific recommendations in the Toys and Supplies Tab.
  • Enzyme cleaner for accidents. There will be accidents. It is what it is. Puppies have tiny bladders and not a lot of control, especially when they’re excited or tired. Once they’ve peed in a spot, their 300 million scent receptors will remind them that that’s a spot where they should pee. Even if we can’t smell it, they can. Enzyme removers are important for disrupting that communication from their nose to their bladders.
  • Grooming tools (brush, nail trimmers, toothbrush). Even if you plan to outsource all of their grooming needs to a professional, it’s important for you to have these things as well and practice them at home, a few minutes a day, every day, to ensure your puppy feels comfortable with the tools as well as being touched where the groomer will be touching them. If you’d like tips on how to do this, please let me know, I’m happy to help pass on any information that can help you set your puppy up for success! Helpful Article: Nail Trimming • Your Happy Dog Coach

I’m going to add some things that I have used myself, both as a guardian as well as a professional trainer. I don’t receive anything form these recommendations and, as mentioned, always do your research and make your own informed decisions.

  • Find chews and chew toys that are soft enough you can dig your nail into it and it will move, this ensures no teeth breakage. Things like carrots, celery, and chew-safe rubber toys that you can put treats or wet food in for the puppy to chew to release what’s inside will be energy burning, teething relieving, and sanity saving (for you).
  • I really love having rope toys to replace human body parts when it comes to chewing, as well.
  • Interactive and Enrichment toys like Snuffle mats, treat-dispensing balls, LickiMats, etc are life saving when it comes to meeting not only chewing and teething needs, but also mental stimulation needs.
  • Your puppy has probably just left their litter and are looking for other playmates to wrestle with. FDM’s call it “the Karl Hack” to have a similarly sized stuffed dog (it doesn’t have to be a dog, it can be anything, really) for your puppy to wrestle and bite and cuddle with can be a game changer. Just, again, keep an eye and make sure they’re not ingesting any of the parts!

Pro Tip: Rotate toys regularly to keep novelty and interest high

Here are links to some of my favorites. Again, I don’t get anything from recommending these, they’re just things I have used and continue to use… also, most of these are Amazon links and I definitely recommend trying to find Canadian brands/sellers instead of Amazon:

It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of a new pup, but the way we welcome them into our home and family truly does matter. The way that we introduce them to their new space, their new people, and their new co-pets makes a difference. 

When introducing your dog to new people, even the people in your home who they will be living with, it’s really important to ensure that your pup has choice. As much as puppies are adorable and cuddly, we want to make sure they feel safe and heard. Those are the two biggest things that can mean the difference between a great family dog and a dog to be cautious of.

So have all of the humans sit down on the floor and allow the puppy/dog to come to each one to explore and gather information. This is super important! Allowing the dog to come to you gives them agency and autonomy and allows them the opportunity to “opt out” of being touched. 

As your dog is ready, they will go around the room to each person, gathering information with their eyes, ears, toes, and nose. 

  • Sit calmly and still. Everything your dog knows has changed. They are in a new place with new people, sounds, smells, movements, etc. A quick movement could startle them and cause fear and anxiety, which are the roots of reactivity.
  • Use a calm, quiet, gentle voice when talking to them and each other in the beginning. Loud sounds or big voices can be scary as well. Try to speak to them gently so they can understand that they can trust you and you aren’t scary.
  • Let them come to you. Give them the choice and agency when exploring their new home and people. Don’t pick them up or grab them, instead teach them that they’re safe with you by allowing them to explore and greet people at their own pace and comfort levels.
  • Brush them on their side or under their chin. Many people automatically touch dogs on the tops of their heads but most dogs find this scary or threatening. Practice the Pet, Pet, Pause method of brushing them: brush them a few times and then pause and wait. If they move towards you or nudge you with their nose or paw, go ahead and brush them a few more times before pausing again. If they move away from you, look away, yawn, lip lick, or give the “side eye”, that’s their way of saying “no thank you”, and stop.
When introducing your new dog to other animals in the home,
it’s really important to do so safely. 

First and foremost:

  • Give your new dog at least 24–72 hours to decompress in their own space before introducing them to resident pets.
  • Let them adjust to your routines, the smells of the home, and your presence first.
  • Don’t rush! This foundation is critical for successful introductions.

You’ve already prepared your puppy’s special space before you brough them home to set them up for success. This is also an important piece when introducing them to any current pets that already live with you. 

Once you’ve given your new pup the crucial time (approximately 24-72 hours, but this time will vary) to decompress, with separate areas for your new dog/puppy and your current pets using baby gates, crates, pens, or closed doors, and you’ve made sure everyone has access to food, water, rest, toys, and enrichment without needing to interact, you can: 

  • Swap blankets or toys between the dogs/cat and puppy so they get used to each other’s scent.
  • Allow them to sniff under doors or baby gates where they can’t physically interact.
  • Feed meals or give enrichment items on opposite sides of a barrier.

Then you can begin to

  • Take the dogs for a walk side by side but with space between them (start 6–10 feet apart or more).
  • Avoid letting them greet face-to-face at first.
  • Reward both dogs for checking in with you, calm behavior, and sniffing the environment.
  • Decrease distance slowly if both dogs remain relaxed.
  • Let dogs see and sniff each other through a secure barrier (baby gate or pen).
  • Keep greetings short and positive — end the session before tension builds.
  • Repeat several times, gradually increasing duration.

And then,

  • If both dogs seem relaxed and interested, try a short, on-leash greeting.
  • Keep leashes loose to avoid tension.
  • Keep greetings brief (2–5 seconds), then call them away for a break.

The next step is supervised time off-leash in the home

  • Only when both dogs are calm and comfortable!
  • Use large spaces, toys put away, and have leashes dragging if needed.
  • Watch for signs of tension: stiff posture, lip licking, freezing, growling.
  • Interrupt gently with your voice or by redirecting to a calm activity.

Cats can be a little trickier.

  • You’ll want to ensure your cat has safe, elevated areas they can retreat to.
  • Use the baby gate or crate to let the dog see the cat without being able to chase.
  • Reward the dog for calm behavior. Interrupt fixating or lunging with redirection, not punishment.

With time, patience, consistency and a lot of supervision, you can then:

  • Keep the dog on leash.
  • Let the cat move freely — never force proximity.
  • If the dog gets too intense, calmly remove them and lower the challenge level next time.

If both animals are relaxed and able to coexist peacefully, allow short periods of supervised freedom but keep the dog leashed or dragging a leash for safety and continue rewarding calm behavior and gentle curiosity.

Important notes: Don’t rush things. It can take months, even years for your puppy to be trustworthy around smaller animals like cats. Until you are 100% certain, you should never leave dogs unattended. And just know that management may always be necessary, even if intros go well. It’s all specific to the Learning, Environment, Genetics, and the dog themSelf.

As a shorthand version:

  • Keep all initial sessions short and positive — success is more important than speed.
  • Watch body language: look for soft eyes, loose bodies, and natural movement. (Learn to *Speak* Dog is a great resource 😉)
  • Interrupt tension early by redirecting or adding distance — don’t wait for a full-blown reaction.
  • Use high-value treats or toys to build positive associations.
  • End on a good note and give everyone time to decompress between sessions.

Adopter’s Guide to Rescue Dogs

“What to do and expect in the first few months”

As a guardian of two rescue dogs myself, I was really pleased to find this wonderful guide from Animal Rescue Konnection and wanted to find a spot for it in my resource section, so I’ve embedded it below for convenience.

Here are a few links to other great resources about adopting rescue dogs: 

More Fear Free Resources:

Set Realistic Expectations
  • Puppies will cry, bite, have accidents, and struggle to settle
  • You’re not doing anything wrong — they’re adjusting!
  • Focus on progress, not perfection
Bringing Pup Home
  • Crash tested crates are the safest way for your dog to travel in the vehicle.
  • If the breeder or rescue has already introduced crate training, crate your pup for the drive home. Include something that smells like where they’re coming from so they have something familiar to smell
  • If you do not want to crate, I’d recommend a harness and a seatbelt. I always think of “What happens to my pup if we have a car accident”. I use harnesses and seatbelts to ensure my dogs do not run off and get lost in the case of an accident. An accident would already be stressful enough, it would make sense for a dog to run.
  • If possible, I would also have one of their new humans sit in the backseat with them so they can see and smell them, and they can reassure the pup with their voice and fingers through the crate.
  • If the breeder or rescue sends something from the breeder that smells familiar to them, I’d keep that with them at all times for now until they settles in with and learn that all the new smells are now “home”.
  • I’d recommend stopping every hour or so if it’s a long drive home. Your new pup will need to stretch and play and, if a puppy, their bladder will be teeny tiny.
  • Offer water at every stop too, and keep some of their food with you so you can give pieces/reinforcement every time they look at you. This will build his engagement with you right from the start which will be amazing for training and bonding!
  • Also, when you do those breaks, practice just saying their new name and then immediately giving some food. It’ll help teach name recognition which will also help with recall over time. 
The First Few Nights
  • Set up a quiet, cozy space (crate or pen near your bed)
  • Expect some whining and know that it’s ok to comfort them; you’re not spoiling them by offering reassurance
  • Try a heartbeat toy or warm water bottle for comfort
Toilet Training Tips

Supervise and take them out:

  • After waking
  • After playing
  • After eating or drinking
  • Every 1–2 hours during the day
  • Reward right away (not after coming inside)
  • Accidents happen — stay calm and clean thoroughly with enzyme cleaner
Teaching Calm Greetings (Guests & You!)
  • Puppies can get over-excited when people arrive
  • Prevent jumping/excitement by:
    • Using a leash or pen when guests arrive
    • Rewarding calm behavior like sitting or staying on a mat
    • Ignoring jumping or over-excited behavior (no eye contact or talking – just turn your body and move away, then reward with praise and some treats or kibble when their paws are all four on the floor)
    • Practicing with mock arrivals to build calm habits

  • When you return home, pause and breathe — avoid making a big deal. Wait for calmness, then greet your puppy
    I know how hard this part is! You want to just love-bomb the you-know-what out of your new furry best friend! But unless you want an over exuberant puppy (and eventually big dog) every time someone comes through the door, it’s a really important step!

Early Socialization (Done Safely)
  • Start with safe, positive experiences:
    • Gentle handling, different textures underfoot, mild sounds
    • Friendly people, car rides, umbrellas, hats, vacuum, etc.

  • Avoid busy public spaces and unfamiliar dogs until vaccines are complete

Enrichment & Play
  • Puppies need mental stimulation as much as physical exercise
  • Use food puzzles, foraging activities, digging boxes, and tunnels
  • Short sniff walks (even in the yard!) are great for their brain
Nipping & Biting – It’s Normal!
  • Puppies explore with their mouths — this phase will pass
  • Redirect to appropriate chew toys
  • Avoid punishing or yelping — this can increase frustration or excitement
  • Monitor for overtiredness — cranky puppies nip more
Build a Routine
  • Regular feeding, potty, training, nap, and play times help reduce chaos
  • Predictability helps your puppy feel safe
  • Include wind-down times before sleep
Start Gentle Training Right Away
  • Pro tip: Use your dog’s food as training treats! If you’d like your dog to have consistent mealtimes, that’s totally fine. But I suggest using maybe half of their breakfast for “breakfast” and then using the rest of their allocated breakfast food for training throughout the day.
  • Keep training sessions short (1–3 minutes) and positive. You can do them multiple times throughout the day, and/or you can “capture” the behaviour you want to see more of by rewarding the natural behaviours your dog does through the day. Training does not need to be done in planned sessions, if your dog offers you a sit, give them a treat/piece of kibble/food. If they come over to you without being called, that’s a natural check in and you definitely want to reinforce that with some food and praise. If your dog goes and lays down instead of begging for food, reward it!
    Reward calm and wanted behaviors throughout the day, not just “commands”
  • Focus on name recognition, and then coming when called. You can use some of your puppy’s daily food for these skill building games, too!
The Importance of Sleep
  • Puppies need up to 18–20 hours of sleep daily!
  • Provide quiet places for naps and avoid overstimulation
  • Overtired puppies are cranky, hyper, and harder to train
Find a Qualified Ethical Trainer

There is one phrase is often used as a piece of advice in the dog training and behavior community is:

“If you wouldn’t let your 100lb dog do it, don’t let your 5lb puppy do it.”

This widely shared principle is generally used to emphasize the importance of consistent boundaries and expectations, regardless of the dog’s size.
We need to remember that small dogs, like large ones, should be taught good manners to prevent unwanted behaviors as they grow or interact with others.
But equally as important, and maybe even more so, is to use it as a reminder that although puppies are super cute when they’re little, you want to encourage the same behaviour you want to see from them when they’re big.

For example: if you don’t want your 100 lb dog to jump on grandma when she comes to visit, you can’t allow them to do so when they’re a cutie patootie 15lb 2 month old puppy!

Moving into a new home can be pretty disorienting for a dog. Even if it’s the most amazing, perfect home for them, it can still be pretty tough to settle in, learn to trust, and get used to the new environment, people, smells, other animals, routine, and more. There is a 3-3-3 “rule” that people talk about:
3 Days – 3 Weeks – 3 Months

It’s really important to remember that this is not a hard and fast rule, but more of a guideline for understanding the adjustment period dogs typically go through when transitioning to a new home.

Each dog is unique and may need more or less time depending on their personality, past experiences, and environment. Patience, understanding, and consistency are key throughout this process, so follow your dogs lead rather than worry if they don’t stick to the 3-3-3 rule.

That said, here are the basic phases a new dog will go through when learning to live within a new family unit:

Initial Days of Overwhelm: Your dog may feel scared, anxious, or unsure about their new environment. They might hide, act withdrawn, or exhibit behaviors like pacing or excessive panting. Some dogs may not eat, drink, or relieve themselves regularly. You can help them through this by giving them space and letting them explore at their own pace, and working on creating a calm, consistent routine. Although we want to share our new little bundle of fluff with everyone, it’s important to avoid overwhelming them with new people, places, or activities just yet. There will be lots of time for that, for now, just be together and allow your new little buddy to relax and settle in. They just left everything they know, everyone they were familiar with. It will take some time for them to decompress.

In the next few weeks: As the pup starts feeling more comfortable in their new home, they may begin to understand the household routine, show their true personality, and test boundaries as they settle. It’s really important to continue to provide structure and routine, with clear rules, and positive reinforcement for all of the things that you want to see them do more often. This is the time to start bonding activities, like playtime and short training sessions, and address behavioral issues gently and proactively if they arise.

Within the next few months: Most dogs feel fully adjusted and secure, with you consistency and predictability, they are now beginning to understand what is expected of them and can start to develop strong bonds with their new family. Continue building trust through training, affection, and consistency. Shared activities like walks, hikes, and training games will deepen your connection. Please continue to be patient with lingering behavioral challenges, as some dogs may take longer to fully adjust.

If you have any other great resources, or would like one-on-one assistance on how to create a safe space for your incoming canine addition to your family, send me a message. You may also find my personally written articles valuable to read through (I hope so, anyway!)

If you’d like to set up a personal SEARCH Room session with your new pup, to help build their confidence in themselves, in their new home environment, and with their new people, send me a message, I will give you a super special New Pup rate! You can learn more about what Your Happy Dog’s SEARCH Room is and how it can be beneficial for your dog right here at S.E.A.R.C.H. Room • Your Happy Dog Coach!

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